V6 Pvc System Replacement

Background and instructions:

Why change your PCV valve and tubing? What does it do? Well, in a nutshell, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilator) allows the excess air in your oil to escape, rather than just build up pressure under the cylinders. These can also cause the pressure that originatesor exacerbatesgasket oil leaks. The air is usually a product of blow-by, or air eeking past the pistons during the compression cycle. It's a normal part of a car's operation, but tends to get worse as a car ages. So remember, just like your grandpa, the older it gets, the more gasses need to escape. And just like the old man, the plumbing may be a little more brittle or clogged than it used to be.

Parts needed:

Tools needed:

  • Phillips-head screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers and/or wire cutters
  • Small hose clamp (or zip tie, in a pinch)
  • Knuckles of steel

(*11/30/05: I have recently learned that the V6 underwent a running change in mid-02 and began using a disc-shaped PCV valve, allegedly VW p/n 077-103-245B. Please keep me updated on any changes or verification. TIA.)

  • First of all, let's get familiar with the V6 engine compartment as it relates to this job. Peel off the cosmetic covers. In fact, you might just want to leave them off, they'll just make life more difficult down the road for your DIY efforts. The blue arrows show the attachment points:


  • With a COLD engine, the first step is to remove the PCV from the passenger-side valve cover. This is done by squeezing on a black compression ring around the outside of the tube. Then just pull away from the engine. You're done on that sideā€¦1 down, four more to do. Arrows show direction of pull.

Following this, remove the plastic strap that holds several wires together near the coolant reservoir. It's just two barbed fittings that can be undone with a screwdriver. Not crucial to the job (no pic).

Next, remove the three phillips screws from the coolant reservoir (if this causes you trouble, please stop reading here ). Arrows show locations.

Now move the reservoir onto the valve cover to get it out of the way. You'll be working from the driver's side fender, so you might want to drape a towel over the paintwork to protect it from scratches. Also, you probably want to remove the coolant sensor connector from the bottom for extra clearance. Arrow shows location.

There are three more of those compression rings here, each of them a bit harder than that first one. Just do the best you can, and don't be afraid to cut them apart for better access. You'll be replacing it all anyway, but just be sure you ONLY cut on things that correspond to the part you just bought. There are some other tubes under there of the same material and diameter, but like a vasectomy surgeon, just randomly guessing is not generally a good idea. Arrows show direction of pull.

The one additional connection comes straight from the PCV valve itself, and bends up toward the engine in a 90-degree elbow. VW decided that they should make life tough for everyone along the way, so they applied the ubiquitous "single-use hose clamp of doom" here. Just careful tweak it open with your needlenose or wire cutters until you can slide the tube and barb apart and slip the clamp off. Arrows show location

Now the old PCV system has been removed and you can just replace it with the new one. Ideally, try to use a screw-type hose clamp where the one-time clamp was before. However, being a low-pressure system, you can get by with a zip-tie, but it probably won't last very long. And don't forget to put the barbed strap back over the wires/tubing, and be sure to replace the coolant sensor before you screw the coolant reservoir back in. Alrighty! Now can you tell which hose is the new one in this pic?

And while it wasn't clogged, who wants brittle hoses full of gunk in their system?

Happy DIY
Ash (ashman78)

Unless otherwise stated, the content of this page is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License