V6 Cam Chain Tensioner Gaskets

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

Small mirror (Dental size or larger recommended)
Torx bit set
Metric socket set
Metric wrench set
Flat head screwdriver
Philips head screw driver
Needle nose pliers
New Cam Chain Tensioner Gaskets
New Valve Cover Gaskets (If needed)
Silicone Sealant (VW sealant recommended)
Anti-seize lubricant (If desired, recommended)
Carburetor or Brake Cleaner
Q-Tips
Rags
LOTS of patience, and 6-8 hours of time
Camera to take pictures, because like a moron, I forgot to take any to aid in this write-up.

Remove engine covers, air box, move coolant reservoir to the side, and any other pieces of equipment that might be in your way.

DRIVER’S SIDE:

1. Remove the spark plug wires and breather tube from valve cover; proceed to remove valve cover and gaskets. (Be careful not to damage the gaskets if you plan to re-use them)

2. Remove the plastic timing belt guard on the front of the engine and remove the two nuts and three bolts that hold the rear (metal) section of the timing belt cover. (You do not need to remove the metal cover completely, removing the securing hardware allows more room to lift the tensioner unit out of the way.)
boltsatwaterpump2.jpg
boltsbehindcampulley2.jpg

3. Loosen the bearing caps on the upper camshaft. (Back out the bolts almost completely to allow room for the cam to lift when the tensioner is loosened.)
Possibleprypoint2.jpg

4. Remove torx bolts from tensioner unit. Lift the tensioner unit by hand as far as possible; it may be necessary to pry the upper cam loose with a large screwdriver by placing it under a NON-MACHINED SURFACE and prying it upward.
Leftheadvalvecover-1.jpg
Possibleprypoint3.jpg

5. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the old CCT gasket and rubber plug.
6. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with Q-tips dampened with carburetor or brake cleaner; (MAKE SURE THE SURFACES ARE CLEAR OF ANY DEBRIS OR OIL BEFORE RE-SEALING, LEAKING MAY OCCUR IF IMPROPERLY SEALED.)
7. Place new rubber plug in place, followed by the metal gasket. Place silicone sealant on the upper part of the mating surface above the rubber plug. (COVER ONLY THE FACTORY-APPLIED SILICONE AREA RIGHT ABOVE THE RUBBER PLUG.)
8. Re-seat the tensioner unit by gently pushing down, making sure the new gaskets are seated properly. Torque the tensioner bolts to 84-inch pounds.
9. Re-seat the upper camshaft GENTLY, and torque the bearing caps to 84-inch pounds.
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the valve covers with carburetor or brake cleaner, making sure any old silicone is removed.
11. Place silicone in the corners of the head. (Where there are sharp corners in the head, and where the large rubber section of gasket seats) Install new gaskets followed by the valve cover. Torque the valve cover nuts to 84-inch pounds.
12. Tighten down the timing belt cover, torque to 84-inch pounds if possible.
13. Replace plastic timing belt cover, coolant reservoir, and driver’s side plastic engine cover.

PASSENGER SIDE:

1. In order to gain enough clearance to move the tensioner unit, you will have to move the power steering line. To do this, follow the line that runs over the passenger side valve cover down to the back of the engine. You will see a bracket holding the line attached with one bolt; it is easily removed with a ratchet with an extension.
Rightheadvalvecverfromfront2.jpg

2. Remove power steering line support attached to top of valve cover.
3. Remove dipstick bracket from head, follow the dipstick tube down until you feel the bolt near the top of the head.
4. Remove the spark plug wires and breather tube from valve cover; proceed to remove valve cover and gaskets. (Be careful not to damage the gaskets if you plan to re-use them)
5. Loosen the bearing caps on the upper camshaft. (Back out the bolts almost completely to allow room for the cam to lift when the tensioner is loosened.)
6. Remove torx bolts from tensioner unit. Lift the tensioner unit by hand as far as possible; it may be necessary to pry the upper cam loose with a large screwdriver by placing it under a NON-MACHINED SURFACE and prying it upward.
7. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the old CCT gasket and rubber plug.
8. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with Q-tips dampened with carburetor or brake cleaner; (MAKE SURE THE SURFACES ARE CLEAR OF ANY DEBRIS OR OIL BEFORE RE-SEALING, LEAKING MAY OCCUR IF IMPROPERLY SEALED.)
9. Place new rubber plug in place, followed by the metal gasket. Place silicone sealant on the upper part of the mating surface above the rubber plug. (COVER ONLY THE FACTORY-APPLIED SILICONE AREA RIGHT ABOVE THE RUBBER PLUG.)
10. Re-seat the tensioner unit by gently pushing down, making sure the new gaskets are seated properly. Torque the tensioner bolts to 84-inch pounds.
11. Re-seat the upper camshaft GENTLY, and torque the bearing caps to 84-inch pounds.
12. Clean the mating surfaces of the valve covers with carburetor or brake cleaner, making sure any old silicone is removed.
13. Place silicone in the corners of the head. (Where there are sharp corners in the head, and where the large rubber section of gasket seats) Install new gaskets followed by the valve cover. Torque the valve cover nuts to 84-inch pounds.
14. Replace the power steering line support bracket at the rear of the engine, also the support at the top of the valve cover.
15. Replace the dipstick support bracket.
16. Replace engine covers, air box, and any other pieces of equipment that were moved.

WAIT AT LEAST 24 HOURS FOR THE SILICONE SEALANT TO CURE!

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