Install Hks 0 Turbo Timer In A B5 5

I know there's several write-ups floating around (several using a Greddy), but I tried to compile all the information from those, as well as use the information from audiworld.com and richmonddubs.com too. The result was a REAL easy way to install a turbo timer, if you've ever thought about using one. Thanks to Pete1 and Quality_Sound for some of their advice too.
Oh, and I realize that Timers aren't necessary, but I had the part and the time, so…….

*Disclaimer*
Do this at your own risk! I am not responsible for anyone attempting this. If you aren't sure about what you are doing, get a professional to do it. You attempt this on your own behalf. And of course, always wear safety glasses
*Disclaimer*

Tools needed:
10mm socket
13mm socket
electrical tape
14 gauge wire (if you have to extend the wire from the TT harness to the connections)
Wire stripper w/crimper combo
Male end (circle type)-1
Female end-3
Razor blade
screwdriver with hex head (can't remember the size)

1. First thing I did was disconnect the negative wire from the car's battery. No need to jack your system up during this process. Then I loosened the drivers side knee bolster (part from underneath the steering wheel). It gives you much better access to wiring and fuses/relays than if you take off the wheel itself. There's a total of about four screws and two clips (clips are top right/left). Be careful with these, as they break easy…or at least mine did. Bolster comes straight out towards you. Remember to disconnect the lighting/dimmer switch once the bolster is halfway out, before laying it down. Once you have the knee bolster down, it should look like this:

2. Next, I drilled a hole in the top of the left side "coin holder", so I could run my TT's wires throught it. I decided to place the TT there since it was unused space and REALLY didn't want to run the wires all the way from under my armrest. I then ran the wires up and through, with the wires resting on the sound dampening material. This pic also shows how I had to extend the wires from the HKS harness, since our cars don't have an organic harness like Toyotas do.

3. Next is running the wires….fun times :. The TT should have a harness that has a green/blue/red wire coming into it…the red is the 12v constant line, blue is the ignition wire, and green is the "accessory" line (which I connected, but heard it isn't necessary). I decided to attach the red (12v constant) to one of the "30"'s which are directly under the relays:

4. I then hooked the black ground wire to the subframe on the left side just below the fusebox housing (make sure there isn't any paint there). Reason I chose there is it was easy and the shortest distance to any ground available (Q_S…tried that 75X, but didn't want to work for me).

5. Now for the hardest part…tapping into the ignition wire. The ignition wire is in the cluster of wires just underneath the steering column. It's the one group of wires that is wrapped in friction-like tape…you can't miss it. Take a razor and slice through the friction tape…enough so that you have room to work:

6. For the ignition wire, you're looking for the largest black wire there is…it will definitely be evident. There wasn't enough room to use a "T" tap, so I shaved some of the rubber coating off the wire and then soldered the blue wire from the TT to it. Now, there's some speculation as to whether soldering or tapping is better….I would have used a tap, but couldn't find the damn room to work the tap in there, so I had to solder. After soldering, I wrapped the connection in electrical tape for safe measure. Once that was complete, I used the green wire (12v accessory) from the TT to hook to the yellow w/black stripe wire, which is adjacent to the black ignition wire (this came from Audiworld). This wire I WAS able to use a "T" tap, which made it a lot easier. Finished product:

7. Next I ran the E-brake cable under and on the side of the center section:

8. I ended up just grounding the wire, to make the TT think it was connected to the E-brake wire (the TT won't run if the wire is left "open"). I used the 13mm bolt right behind the E-brake underneath the armrest:

9. Next, put everything back together (clean up the wires so they won't rattle…I highly suggest friction tape), put all the bolts back together and put the knee bolster back in place. Next, I used two-sided tape and mounted the TT:

Total time:
3 hours (mainly cause I was F'ing around making sure I didn't screw something up…also a little poking around cause I had never taken the knee bolster out).

Hope this helps if you ever decide to run one

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