Step1 : (pic missing) - open the door to be repaired. There should be a rubber plug which covers the lock screw access. All other screws are torx so you should have no problems identifying which one is rubber. When you have take it off
Step2 : (pic missing) - there will be a screw in here which you need to loosen before you can remove the lock. There is a special VW Tool for this but you can remove it using a T20 Torx Screwdriver. I've seen some instructions on how far to loosen it. Some say 3-4 turns and others say until it feels "tight". In my opinion the 2nd step is closest, just keep making small turns - the part where mine was loosest to remove the lock was approx 1cm from the hole where you put your tool through if it helps. My car is a 3B it may differ on each model. Once you have loosened it enough, I found the easier way to remove it was put my car keys in the damaged lock. Turn them left / right and use it as a lever to pull / wiggle the lock out. Worked a treat for me
Step3 : This is what the kit received from ebay contained. A new spring, a new paddle, clip and castle parts. Depending how bad your repair is your may need all, or in my case only one part.
Step4 : This is what your lock should look like with the outer cover still on
Step5 : The instructions I had suggested cleaning the lock barrel (I used kitchen towel and WD40) and it involves removing the outer cover. This picture shows the clips which hold it. Should be easy enough to figure out
Step6 : At this point after I put the barrel back into the plastic housing I placed the key in the lock incase anything worked loose.
Step7 : (pic missing) - I missed off this bit, I was actually stuck wondering on how to get the lock out with the broken parts. Bit of delving I figured it, at the top of the lock where the paddle is (the long rod thing) there is a clip it looks like a letter c. Put a screwdriver at the back of the C and rotate screwdriver sideways, this should provide enough force to remove the pressure holding it in
WARNING I would suggest holding the parts at this point because the spring underneath has some strength
Step8 : This is the parts of my lock once I removed it, you'll notice the broken bits which was causing my problems (castle). I simply needed to replace this part to repair mine.
Step9 : Just an inside shot of the barrel
Step10 : This is what the castle should look like when it's inside the lock. You should be able to work it out when fitted, as the castle has two locator holes which fit over the lock holes and there is a small notch which aligns with the missing section on the lock. I've tried to show it here
Step11 : This is where the spring goes in, when you are pushing the paddle down you need to twist it put the other end of the spring behind the catch roughly in the position of the arrow.
This part was a SERIOUS pain in the arse for me. I dont' have any tips for this, possible long nails and push the lock against your chest as you put downward pressure and turn it. It does go in but took me like 3 hrs as I ripped my nails to crap
Step12 : My newly repaired lock ta-da
Step13 : (pic missing) - Refitting is a reversal of removal, have a look inside the door and make sure the plastic bit is straight up first not at an angle. To fit the lock you slightly pull the handle out to allow access, then push it in. Once the lock is flush with door tighten the screw. It makes a sort of a clunk noise (think it's the locks engaging with part of the lock system) and when tightened test it out
