1 8t Sai System Removal Atw Engine

by: dben


DISCLAIMER

Background:

Symptoms of issue or other information

Tools:

  • 8 and 10mm socket drives
  • T20 Torx drive
  • 5mm allen wrench or drive
  • 10w, 300ohm resistor
  • vacuum cap
  • zip ties
  • soda bottle cap
  • needle nose pliers
  • PB Blaster

Parts:

  • Integrated Engineering SAI blockoff plate

1. Get in the car and steer your wheels all the way to the right.

2. Remove the plastic belly pan.

3. In the front passenger side wheel well: remove several of the T20 screws so you can bend the wheel well liner back and tuck it behind the control arm or something.
step1.jpg
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This allows access to the SAI pump.

4. Stick your head under there and remove the two black hoses that attach to the pump. Squeeze the connections really hard and wiggle them free.
hoseconnections.jpg

5. In order to remove the pump from the bracket, you must remove 3 10mm bolts. I got the bottom two from below.
step5.jpg

To get the third one, I took off the front passenger bumper grille (where your foglights might be). I used a really long extension and twisted the pump around to get a good angle.
step5-5.jpg

If your bolts are rusted stuck, just douse them in PB blaster and wait a few minutes before tackling them. (If you don’t own PB blaster – go out and buy some! It’s way more effective than WD-40 or the like.)

6. Now may also be a good time to remove the electrical connector. Just push in on the tab (pictured above) and wiggle it free.

7. Wiggle the pump free and take it out of the bracket. I didn’t remove the bracket, it looked like more trouble that it was worth.
step7.jpg

8. Go up to the engine bay and remove the SAI hose that goes to the airbox (you disconnected it below). If you don’t have a screw hose clamp (like me) then work the VW clamp off with a pair of pliers.
step8.jpg

I covered the intake hole with a soda bottle cap. I used a sharp blade to remove the inner threading and muscled it on there. Just a temporary fix until I find something better.
step8-2.jpg

9. Now to remove the remants of the other hose. Follow this line down to where the pump once was.
step10b.jpg

Remove this hose connector, at the bottom of the hardline. You may want to remove the high-beam electrical connector to allow yourself more room.
step9b.jpg

Also remove these two 5mm allen bolts that secure the hardline. These can be tricky to access. You could pull off the intake hose to allow yourself more room.
step9d.jpg

Remove the VW clamp and plastic elbow at the top of the hardline.
step9c.jpg

Rip it all out.

10. Continue up the hardline and remove the 5mm allen screw that secures it to the block and the two 8mm bolts that attach it to the heatshield.
step10a.jpg

This hardline runs into the combi valve at the back of the engine. There are two 5mm allen bolts securing it to the combi valve.
step10b.jpg

These can be tricky to remove. All I used was an L-shaped allen wrench, a small pipe (for added torque), and my skinny hands. You could try to remove some of the PCV hardline bolts in order to finagle yourself some more room.
step10c.jpg

Remove the hardline once it’s free.

11. This is what the combi setup would look like if you were sitting behind the engine, looking towards the front bumper…
combivalveback.jpg

There are three 5mm allen bolts that attach the combi adapter to the back of the block. Remove the three bolts and take off the combi valve/adapter. Also remove the vac line that goes to the combi valve, and place it to the side.

Clean off the part of the block where the combi adapter was. Attach the blockoff plate over the hole with the supplied o-ring and 5mm bolts.
blockoffoverlay.jpg

12. Follow the vac line to the underside of the intake manifold. It goes to the combi solenoid (I believe). I decided to cap the vac line with some random vac supplies I had lying around. I used zip ties to secure it to the solenoid, I’m not sure if that’s recommended.
step12.jpg

13. Go back to the electrical connector for the SAI pump and attach the resistor. I just placed both pins into the hole, secured it with electrical tape, wrapped it in a heavy plastic bag, zip tied it shut, and coiled it behind the headlamp.

14. Here’s everything that I removed… phew. Button everything back up and make sure you remove any tools that may be lying in the engine bay. Then go turn on your car and enjoy the Incorrect Airflow error you’ll have (as if you didn’t have it before…)
done.jpg
done2.jpg

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